Ridge Hike through Bohemian-Saxon Switzerland

The aim of the challenge is to visit and log at least 20 of the 22 peaks of the challenge. It's a challenging ridge climb, with up and down, isolated table mountains to climb, often on iron stairs and ladders. The route can be done both ways and you can start either in Jetrichovice CZ or Kurort Rathen DE. The route is very well marked. There are several villages along the route where you can have a refreshment, spend the night or plan a crossing. On some peaks you will meet mountain restaurants, so a gastronomic experience with a view is guaranteed. The ridge runs through Czech and German territory, so make sure you have your ID with you. From the Czech right bank of the Elbe you can get to the German right bank by ferry, which is a very nice experience. The challenge was prepared by Věrka the Fox from the Horobraní team.

Crossing the Bohemian-Saxon Switzerland is a unique experience that combines the beauty of two national parks - the Czech National Park Bohemian Switzerland and the German Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz. This region, located on the border of northern Bohemia and Saxony, offers breathtaking landscapes of sandstone cliffs, deep canyons, mystical forests and historical monuments.

Bohemian-Saxon Switzerland is a landscape that has been shaped by natural forces and human presence for centuries. The sandstone rocks that today form the heart of the area were formed more than 90 million years ago at the bottom of the Mesozoic sea. Over time, they have been sculpted by wind, water and frost into the shape that today resembles a stone city full of towers, gates, ravines and table mountains.

The area became a tourist hotspot in the late 18th century, when the first admirers of wildlife - including the two Swiss painters who gave the landscape its name - began to flock here. It was thanks to them that the name Switzerland was born, because of its similarity to the Swiss landscape. In 2000, the Czech side of the country was declared the National Park Bohemian Switzerland, following the existing German National Park Sächsische Schweiz from 1990.

We start our version of the ridge tour in Jetřichovice. It is ideal to get here by public transport - by bus. Before you set off on the traditional red trail, which is both the European E3 long-distance route and the NS Jetřichovské Stěny, we will divert you to the nearby rock castle of Falkenštejn, where you will watch from metal platforms where your next steps will lead. Further on, you can't get lost, the red trail will take you to three of the most famous viewpoints in Bohemian Switzerland - Maria's Rock, Vilemín's Viewpoint and Rudolf's Stone. On the way to Mezní louka, you will meet Šaunštejn, where you will sweat a little up the ladder, and the Small Pravčická Gate, which, unlike its bigger sister, rests peacefully deep in the forest. If you go with children, on the way to Mezní louka you will meet the Rysí trail. There are twenty stations along the 1.5 km long circuit, which explain what is happening in the surrounding nature in a humorous way and encourage active movement. At Mezní meadow, it's exactly 10 km from the start and the first opportunity to freshen up. There is a restaurant, a hotel and a campsite.

The trail continues along the road to Mezná and then continues on the green trail over the Kamenice River through the quiet zone of the national park. To the Janovský hill with the lookout tower, you then continue on the yellow trail, over Písečný vrch to Hřensko, where the Czech part imaginatively ends.

How to get across the Elbe?
Simply by ferry :-). Both of them will take you to the other bank from where we will head to the German village of Schöna. In high water, the ferry service is limited, so we recommend you always check the current situation.

1) Ferry Hřensko - Schöna (also railway station)
It operates from spring to autumn, generally running every 15-30 minutes, usually from 8:00 to 18:00/19:00, but you should always check the current timetable.

2) Schmilka-Hirschmühle ferry (also a railway station)
The ferry operates daily from 6:20 to 22:30, on request - i.e. without a fixed timetable. It transports pedestrians and cyclists between the German side (Schmilka) and the Schmilka-Hirschmühle stop on the other side of the Elbe. The cost is around 3 euros per ride.

The first German highlight on this route is Zilkerstein, which is reached by a short climb with the final part on long iron stairs. For those who are hungry and need a rest, the ZirkelsteinResort is a short walk away with refreshments and accommodation. In sight is another unmissable peak, the Kaiserkrone, with a shooting gallery and a small transmitter at the top, from where you can get a beautiful view of the Zilkerstein rock from which you have just come.

Your next steps on the German part of the ridge will lead you towards the village of Kleingießhübel, first to the summit of its bigger brother Großer Zschirnstein and the amazing view of the Czech side, and then to Kleiner Zschirnstein with the transmitter. In the village below there is a parking lot and a guesthouse. You continue through the forest to the lesser known and unpretentious sandstone peaks of the Lasensteine group. It is a nice walk through the forest among the rocks on beaten paths off the marked red trail. The last peak of this group is Kohlbornstein. The red trail leads to the village of Krippen, which is also a train stop on the route between Děčín and Dresden.

From the previous Kohlbornstein it is about 4 km to the beautiful sandstone peak Papststein. Just be careful at the village Kleinhennersdorf, there is a poorly marked route on the maps and the sign will lead us through private land, which is definitely not passable. You have to go around the village (see link below). It's a long climb up to Papststein through the forest, but at the top you're treated to dazzling panoramic views, especially of the iconic Lilienstein on the opposite bank of the Elbe. In addition, the traditional mountain hut Bergwirtschaft Papststein is located on the summit , which you will be happy to use. Papststein and the adjacent Gohrisch are also interesting for climbing, as they are part of the climbing area "Gebiet der Steine".

Next on the route is the table mountain Pfaffenstein. The ascent/descent is very steep and difficult, and quite narrow in places. At the top there is a 23m stone cylindrical lookout tower and also the Berggastststätte restaurant. On the southern slope you can admire an 80m high rock needle called Barbarina. The route then turns back to the Elbe to the village of Königstein, famous for its eponymous fortress on a sandstone rock platform 240m above the Elbe. We have less than 10 km and the last three peaks to go. We continue along the red trail through the village of Thürmsdorfer towards Kurort Rathen and meet the table mountains Kleiner Bärenstein and Rauenstein on the way. Iron stairs lead up to both rocks and on Rauenstein you can also refresh yourself in the small summit pub.

As the icing on the cake and our destination is Bastei with its iconic stone bridge and viewing platforms. It is the most visited tourist attraction in Saxon Switzerland, so arm yourself with a little patience in front of the crowds. To get to the Bastei, I need to use one more ferry.

3) Kurort Rathen ferry
This ferry operates year-round from early morning until almost midnight. You can choose between the cable ferry (without motor) for 3 euros round trip or the motor ferry for 4 euros round trip.

You need 20 of the 21 peaks to complete the Ridge Route, no matter which one you skip. While it would be a shame to skip Bastei, it's understandable if you don't want to use the additional ferry or don't want to crowd in with the tourists. Either way, from the Kurort Rathen train station on the left bank of the Elbe, you can get back to Bohemia - to Decin.

As far as sleeping is concerned, you all know that there is a ban on sleeping in the National Park. In the Czech Republic, you can sleep overnight at Mezní louka, which is 10 km from Jetřichovice. On the German side, it's great because the route doesn't go directly through the protected area of the NP and so you can reasonably bivouac anywhere in the forest. Along the way you will meet several cabins and log cabins where you can comfortably spend the night

Summary

Length: 67 km
Elevation profile: approx. 3000 m climb
Route: https: //mapy.cz/s/polemuletu
What to bring: the Horobraní app, ID card, euros, first aid kit and camera

Czechoslovak Switzerland is full of beautiful places, rocky nooks and panoramic views that will linger in your memory for a long time. We hope you enjoy your stay and come back here.